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off the beaten path

A Guide to the Free Hot Springs in La Fortuna: The Roadside Spot Locals Use

2026-06-30 · 7 min read

People soaking in the warm, steamy waters of the Río Chollín free hot springs in La Fortuna, Costa Rica, surrounded by dark jungle rocks at twilight.

We absolutely love the grand hot spring resorts of La Fortuna, but sometimes the most memorable moments come from simpler pleasures. A warm river, a sky full of stars, and the sound of the jungle—no ticket required. That's the beauty of the free hot springs, a spot we love sharing with our guests.

Yes, there are free hot springs in La Fortuna. The spot is locally known as Río Chollín (or El Choyín), a naturally heated river that flows right past the famous resorts. It’s a rustic, undeveloped spot where you can soak in the same volcanically heated waters as the paid attractions, but in a completely natural setting.

What Are the Free Hot Springs? (The Río Chollín Explained)

When you hear about the legendary hot springs of Arenal, you're hearing about the Tabacón River. This river is heated naturally by geothermal energy from the Arenal Volcano. The big resorts, like Tabacón, build beautiful facilities along this river, channeling the water into a network of pristine pools, waterfalls, and swim-up bars.

The Río Chollín is simply a section of that very same river that exists outside the resort walls. It's accessible to the public, right off the main road. Here, the river flows over smooth rocks and under a small bridge, creating a series of shallow, warm pools perfect for a relaxing soak.

There are no lifeguards, no towel service, no lockers, and no perfectly paved paths. It’s just the river in its natural state. The bottom is rocky and can be slippery, and the depth and temperature vary from spot to spot. This is its charm—an authentic Costa Rican experience without the price tag.

How to Get There from Casa Venado

Finding the Río Chollín is straightforward. From our front door at Casa Venado, it's a scenic drive of about 30 to 45 minutes towards La Fortuna.

~40 minDrive from Casa Venado
15 minDrive from La Fortuna
$0Entry Fee
24/7Access

Here are the simple steps:

  1. Drive towards La Fortuna on Route 142. You'll pass the town and continue west towards Arenal Volcano National Park.
  2. Look for Tabacón Resort. The entrance to Tabacón Thermal Resort & Spa will be on your right. The free springs are just a couple hundred meters past it, on the left.
  3. Spot the Yellow Gate. You'll see a line of cars parked on the shoulder of the road. The entrance is a small, designated break in the guardrail, often near a yellow gate. You don't go through the gate, but follow the dirt path down to the river from there.
  4. Park Carefully. Pull your car completely off the road onto the gravel shoulder. As with anywhere, lock your doors and do not leave any valuables visible inside your car. The road can be busy, so be cautious when getting out.

The drive itself is on paved roads, but having a vehicle with good clearance is always a plus for exploring the countryside. If you're wondering about what kind of car to rent, we have a guide that might help: Do I Need a 4x4 for La Fortuna & Casa Venado?.

What to Expect & Pro Tips

Knowing what you're getting into is key to enjoying this rustic spot. It’s popular for a reason, but it’s not a resort.

  • It Can Be Crowded: This “secret” spot isn’t so secret anymore. Expect to share the river with local families, students, and other travelers. It has a friendly, communal vibe.
  • The Terrain is Natural: The path down to the river is a short but steep dirt trail. Once you're at the water, you'll be navigating over smooth, algae-covered rocks. Water shoes are not a suggestion, they are a necessity.
  • Temperature Varies: Find a spot you like! Some pools are warmer than others. You can often feel currents of cooler water mixing with the hot, which is quite pleasant.
  • Night Soaking: Soaking under the stars is incredible. However, there are no lights. You must bring a good flashlight or headlamp for every person in your group to navigate the path and rocks safely.

What to Bring (and What to Leave Behind)

Packing light is the best strategy. You'll have to carry everything down a short, uneven path and keep an eye on it while you swim.

  • Water Shoes or Sturdy Sandals: The single most important item. The rocks are very slippery.
  • Towel: A quick-dry travel towel is ideal.
  • Swimsuit: Arrive wearing it, as there are no changing rooms.
  • Waterproof Bag: A small dry bag is perfect for your phone, keys, and wallet.
  • Flashlight or Headlamp: Absolutely essential if you plan to be there after sunset.
  • Drinking Water: Stay hydrated, but please pack out your bottles.

What should you leave at home or locked in the car? Valuables, nice jewelry, passports, and anything you’d be devastated to lose. It’s a safe place, but it’s public and unattended.

Safety at a Natural River

This is a natural, unsupervised river, which requires a bit of common sense and awareness, especially during the green season.

  • Never Go Alone at Night: It's best to go with at least one other person after dark.
  • Watch Your Step: The rocks in and out of the water are slick. Move slowly and deliberately.
  • Secure Your Belongings: Don't leave your bag unattended on the riverbank. Keep it close and within sight.
  • Don't Drink the Water: While the water is clean enough to soak in, it's not potable.
  • Listen to Your Body: The water is warm and soothing. It's easy to get dehydrated or overheated, even at night. Take breaks and drink plenty of fresh water.

Free vs. Paid: Which Is Right for You?

So, should you skip the famous resorts for the free river? We think it's not an either/or question. They offer completely different experiences, and both are wonderful.

The Río Chollín is perfect if:

  • You're on a budget and want to experience the thermal waters.
  • You love rustic, natural, and authentic experiences.
  • You only want a quick dip for an hour or two.
  • You enjoy the buzz of a local, communal hangout.

A paid resort like The Springs Resort & Spa or Baldí Hot Springs is a better fit if:

  • You want to spend a full day or evening relaxing.
  • You value amenities like lockers, bathrooms, restaurants, and waterslides.
  • You are traveling with small children or anyone with mobility challenges.
  • You prefer a more controlled, secure, and pristine environment.

Many of our guests do both! They might enjoy a spontaneous evening soak at the free river and also splurge on a day pass to a resort. For a deeper dive into the paid options, you can read our family-friendly guide to Arenal hot springs.

A Perfect Evening Itinerary

Want to make the most of your trip to the free springs? Here’s a simple plan we love:

  1. Spend the day on a big adventure, like hiking at Arenal 1968 or exploring the Mistico Hanging Bridges.
  2. In the late afternoon, drive from your activity towards the Río Chollín.
  3. On the way, stop in La Fortuna for a casual dinner at a local spot like Soda La Hormiga. Check out our other favorite local restaurants too.
  4. Arrive at the springs just as dusk is settling in.
  5. Soak for an hour or so as the sky darkens and the jungle comes alive with sound.
  6. Head back to Casa Venado for a restful night's sleep.

It’s a simple, affordable, and deeply memorable way to experience one of the true natural wonders of the Arenal area. We are always happy to give you the most current tips and directions when you stay with us. Just ask!

FAQ

Common questions

Are the free hot springs safe to visit at night?
They can be, but you must be prepared. Go with a group, and every person needs a flashlight or headlamp. The path is unlit and the river rocks are slippery, so caution is essential. We can give you more specific advice when you're here.
Are there bathrooms or changing rooms at the free hot springs?
No, it's a completely natural and undeveloped river spot. We recommend wearing your swimsuit under your clothes. The nearest public facilities are in La Fortuna, about a 15-minute drive away.
How far are the free hot springs from Casa Venado?
It's a pleasant drive of about 30-45 minutes from our door to the parking area for Río Chollín. The spot is located just past the town of La Fortuna, near the Tabacón resort.
Is the Río Chollín suitable for children?
It can be, but always with close adult supervision. The river bottom is rocky, uneven, and slippery, and the current can vary. It's best for school-aged children who are steady on their feet and comfortable in natural water.
Is there parking available at the free hot springs?
There is no official parking lot. Visitors park carefully on the wide gravel shoulder of the main road (Route 142). Always pull your vehicle completely off the road, lock it, and never leave valuables in sight.